Gordon’s Bar Infinita is serving up fine dining any Italian Nonna would be proud of
BY ALEX DRISCOLL
In an increasingly crowded Italian fine-dining scene, Bar Infinita owner, Taran Tamana, believes focusing on simplicity is what helps his Gordon-based business stand out. “We’re not trying to be the fanciest – we’re just focused on great food, great energy and consistency,” he said. “No ego, just flavour and care in every detail.”
That care for detail is evident from the moment you step through the door. I found myself tucked into a cozy booth on a rainy Friday night and, despite having opened in March 2024, Bar Infinita still has that new restaurant buzz about it.
If I had to describe the cuisine on offer, it would be Nonna’s classics if she had access to the best produce. To start, we ordered a small plate of silky and comforting mortadella and the meatiest wood-fired king prawn I have ever eaten, slathered in a luxurious nduja butter sauce. The standout dish was the surprisingly simple pizza bianca, one of the restaurant’s signatures, which perhaps represents the ethos of Bar Infinita’s best. “It’s simple but done right,” explains Taran. “The dough is slow-fermented, cooked in the wood fire, and finished with homemade chilli oil, pecorino, sea salt and rosemary. It’s our way of showing that even the humblest dish can be full of flavour and soul.” It also served as the ideal mopping-up tool for the nduja butter!
While sipping on a perfectly bitter Negroni, our mains arrived. The standout was the game duck. Perfectly crispy skin, the umami-scented anise myrtle jus and sweet baby Dutch carrots, contrasted perfectly with the gamey duck and spring roll, creating a complex yet homely dish. We also enjoyed the visually stunning squid-ink tagliolini with blue swimmer crab, a classic yet straightforward Italian seafood pasta dish.
Around us, it seemed that everyone was relishing their meals. The restaurant, too, seemed willing to accommodate anyone’s palate. The table next to us was served a simple (yet delicious looking) plate of perfectly cooked steak and chips for the children, who devoured it immediately.
To finish the evening, we shared perhaps the most generous serving of tiramisu I have ever had at a restaurant. Served directly from the dish to our plates, Nonna’s pistachio-flavoured treat delivered everything you could want from the iconic Italian dessert, punctuated by a smooth nuttiness.
Bar Infinita delivers an elevated Italian dining experience without being intimidating. It offers all the delicious flavours you know and love, but taken to the next level.
“We keep it tight and thoughtful,” Taran stated. “The kitchen is small but mighty – and nothing leaves the ‘pass’ unless we’d proudly eat it ourselves.”
Bar Infinita 10 St Johns Ave, Gordon 9144 6910 | barinfinita.com.au
