Garfish restaurant overlooking the waters of East Manly Cove has been serving fish that’s fresh, seasonal and full of flavour to locals and visitors alike for 20 years. It’s hard to believe that this is my first visit, I think as my husband and I are greeted warmly and seated by the window on a warm autumnal evening with a gentle breeze coming in from the water.
Danen Young started work at Garfish as a runner in 2012. Ten years later he bought the restaurant from the owners, who also had venues in Kirribilli (now closed) and Crows Nest (operating and owned by executive chef Mike Nash).
Over the years, Garfish has built up a loyal customer base, with the finest seafood in a relaxed dining setting with professional service, but it’s not fine dining.
“We’re elevated, but we’re not fine,” he says. “Our prices don’t reflect fine dining, despite our elevated service and water location. We want to appeal to as many people as possible.”
We start off with garlic and rosemary focaccia, with house made taramasalata and salt and pepper squid with the lightest of batter, served with chilli jam.
In addition to the menu, diners can choose a fish from the blackboard specials – and then choose a side of their liking from a selection of options. Danen says the menu is focussed on complementing the fish.
“(The previous owner’s) philosophy from the beginning was, ‘let the fish drive the dish,’” says Danen. “We haven’t strayed from that at all.”
My barramundi is beautiful, served with polenta, and my husband thoroughly enjoys snapper with a spinach beetroot salad with goats cheese, pine nuts and a citrus hazelnut dressing.
Salmon and barramundi are menu mainstays, as is the popular snapper pie, but seasonality also affects the menu.
“We don’t have a set seasonal menu; we tweak it multiple times throughout the year,” explains Danen. “We call it our seasonal menu, but it changes more than once a season.”
We choose cocktails from the extensive drinks menu – a tommy’s smoking rita (like a margarita with spices) for me and a seadrift sour for the driver – both delicious and refreshing. Dessert is tiramisu, served with meringue and chocolate ice cream, and refreshing berry and mango sorbet.
Garfish also has a private dining room available for 30 people, and the Sugarfish Bar means diners can enjoy a drink before dinner. I am going back for the snapper pie next time.
GARFISH
1/39 E Esplanade, Manly
9977 0707 / garfish.com.au