When I was a child, I was lucky enough to visit Sardegna, an island of rugged beauty which sits off the eastern coast of Italy in the Tirreno Sea. When I dined at Pilu, the beautiful flavours of each dish transported me back to L’Isola Smeralda – The Emerald Isle, named after its transparent waters.
Pilu has been a feature on Freshwater Beach’s hill for 20 years, a mainstay of Italian fine dining in Sydney, when so many others have sought to downplay their menus for trends and foot traffic. Pilu is a refreshing reprieve to the ‘fast food’ of the main, and namesake Giovanni Pilu even has an industrial kitchen in Warriewood where he processes some of the accompaniments which help make the menu so unique.
Wife and co-owner Marilyn Annecchini says one of the reasons Pilu has stayed the test of time in a challenging restaurant environment is primarily because of its welcoming, knowledgeable staff and exceptional service. “It’s really important for us to make people feel like it’s a family environment,” Marilyn says. Pilu is also ‘constantly evolving’ – not just with its menu, but also wine tasting nights and produce events with farmers/suppliers. And for three years now Pilu has held its very popular ‘In Conversation’ literary series – so well known that publishers call to see if they can get a spot for their authors. Beaches local Cameron Daddo will feature on 10 April, and Layne Beachley sold out in March.
When you dine at Pilu, the expert waiters will guide you through the menu, which Marilyn describes as ‘modern Sardinian.’ Take paccheri as an entree, a rectangular-shaped pasta made in house with squid ink. Don’t be deterred by the black colour, as the flavour is a gentle reminder of the sea – accompanied by a gorgeous tomato-based sauce flavoured by mussels, calamari and a kick of chilli crumble.
Suckling pig (maialetto) has been a staple on the menu since the beginning, with Marilyn explaining that in Sardinia, a lot of food comes from the land. The pigs are raised free range and delivered weekly from a farm near Mudgee. With autumn arriving, the pork is served with a hearty serve of pumpkin, hazelnuts and sage.
Marilyn recommends the Sardinian Experience to sample the best of the menu, which is half-price for four courses on Sunday nights. And if your budget is tight, the two-course mid-week $79 special is a winner.
Pilu at Freshwater Moore Road pilu.com.au 9938 3331